Canine Influenza – Update

Canine Influenza – Update

Update- Dr. Burgess on Canine Influenza

In the Crystal Lake, Algonquin and Lake in the Hills area

This week new information has become available concerning the current Influenza outbreak. Cases of this upper respiratory infection (symptoms may include fever, lethargy, cough, nasal discharge, pneumonia) have been reported now in various locations outside of the city. The strain of Influenza causing most of these cases has not been previously diagnosed in the United States which is making testing and treatment more complicated. The current Influenza vaccination may not have any efficacy against this new Asian strain. This Influenza virus while not contagious to humans is highly contagious to dogs and possibly cats (no reported cases as of yet) staying alive on surfaces for forty eight hours, clothing for twenty four hours, and hands for twelve hours. Current recommendations include:

  • Be aware that any exposure to any other dog that is infected may put your pet at risk. Dogs are able to spread the infection several days prior to showing any symptoms.
  • If planning to board, use doggie daycare, visit a dog park, participate in group dog classes, or attend dog events, be aware that your pet may be at greater risk for contracting this infection.
  • Contemplate vaccination for Canine Influenza. While the currently available vaccine may not prevent this strain, it does still prevent the original strain which has also been found in some affected Chicago pets. Bottom line is we just do not know enough yet about this new strain, but vaccination for Bordetella and Influenza is what we have available at this point in time.
  • Avoiding exposure is the number one preventative.

The American Veterinary Medical Associations thoughts on Canine Influenza.

Canine Influenza

Canine Influenza

By Dr. Karen Burgess

What is Canine Influenza?
Canine Influenza is a virus that primarily affects a dog’s respiratory system causing a cough, fever, and in some cases pneumonia. The infection is often difficult to differentiate from other more common causes of respiratory disease in dogs (i.e. kennel cough).

How common is Canine Influenza diagnosed?
First diagnosed at Greyhound racetracks in 2004, Influenza has subsequently been diagnosed sporadically in pockets throughout the United States. The occurrence is much less frequent in nature than other causes of “kennel cough” or infectious respiratory disease. In spring 2015 there was an increase in respiratory disease seen in downtown Chicago; several of these cases tested positive for Canine Influenza. It is important to remember that while the broadcast news may report “thousands affected” this has not been confirmed and many of these cases may in fact be from other more common causes of kennel cough.

How is Canine Influenza spread?
The virus is spread in respiratory secretions that have been aerosolized or landed on objects that another dog then comes in contact with. Canine Influenza is highly infectious with 80% of exposed dogs developing some form of infection. The 20% that do not become infected can however still spread the disease. Group dog situations (daycare, boarding, dog classes, dog parks, veterinary hospitals) are more apt to encourage the spread of the disease. Objects used with or by infected dogs (bowls, grooming utensils, leashes) can also spread infection.

What are the symptoms of Canine Influenza?
Most dogs infected with Canine Influenza develop minimal signs of a persistent cough lasting for two to three weeks. Nasal discharge, loss of appetite, fever, breathing difficulties, and pneumonia may develop in more severely affected patients. It is thought that the very young and very old are more susceptible. In rare cases, infection and its subsequent complications may be fatal. Any pet that develops signs of an upper respiratory infection that has been recently exposed to other dogs in particular in an area where an outbreak is or has occurred would be considered at higher risk for infection.

How is Canine Influenza treated?
For most dogs, at home care with possible antibiotics and cough suppressants is sufficient. For more severely affected patients, hospitalization for fluid therapy, injectable antibiotics, and oxygen therapy may be necessary.

How is Canine Influenza exposure prevented?
The most reliable prevention is not having exposure to other dogs during an outbreak. Avoiding group dog situations for several weeks until the risk has passed or vaccination is performed would be recommended. It is important to remember that even with vaccination disease will likely not be 100% prevented. From a hygiene standpoint, Canine Influenza stays alive on surfaces for forty eight hours, clothing for twenty four hours, and hands for twelve hours. Cleaning with standard disinfectants such as dilute bleach kills the virus. Dogs that have been exposed to the virus can shed or pass the virus on for two weeks after exposure. More importantly, dogs will shed the virus most in the days prior to showing clinical signs. This emphasized the importance of limiting exposure to other dogs if Canine Influenza has been identified in a region.

What about vaccination?
While there is a vaccine for Canine Influenza, it requires two injections and protection is not provided for two weeks minimum after the second dose is administered. This means if the first vaccination is given today, a pet would not be protected for at least four weeks. The vaccine does not 100% prevent disease or the spread of disease. Considered a non-core vaccination (meaning only recommended for at risk dogs), Canine Influenza has not been a vaccine routinely given in this area. With this recent outbreak vaccination of dogs frequently exposed to other dogs may be recommended. In a large degree, this will depend on the extent the disease spreads and the duration of the outbreak. Healthy Paws Animal Hospital is in the process of obtaining the vaccination for owners that are interested. There are no major side effects associated with vaccination.

Bladder Stones

Bladder Stones

By Dr. Karen Burgess

What is a bladder stone?
Uroliths or bladder stones are the accumulation of minerals in the urinary tract that form rock like structures. Bladder stones can range in size from the size of sand to as large as an orange. There are many different types of bladder stones and they are described based on their mineral makeup. Bladder stones can take days to years to develop and can be a one-time only or chronic condition.

What are common signs and problems associated with bladder stones?
Bladder stones often abrade or rub the bladder wall causing irritation. This can lead to blood in the urine and decreased ability to fight off bacterial infections. In severe cases the stone can block the passage of urine out of the bladder causing the bladder to distend and potentially causing life-threatening complications. Owners will often note that their pet has increased urgency to urinate, is urinating more frequently, or having accidents in the house. In some cases the pet may posture to urinate frequently but have a poor stream of urine (dribbling). Pain, inappetance, vomiting, and collapse can all develop with more severe disease.

What causes bladder stones to develop?
The type of stone often helps determine the underlying cause along with the patient’s age, sex, and breed. Some stones (struvite/triple phosphate) are almost exclusively secondary to bacterial infection of the bladder. Other types such as urate or cystine have a genetic correlation with certain breeds having a higher incidence. There are also many cases in which there is not a direct cause and effect in a patient and for whatever reason (physical, metabolic, physiologic) a pet is predisposed to stone formation. Diet has been associated in the past with some stone formation and often diet manipulation is essential in preventing or treating bladder stones.

How is my pet diagnosed with bladder stones?
In some cases larger stones can even be palpated on physical exam. The definitive diagnosis of bladder stones involves visualizing the stones typically via radiographs or ultrasound. While ultrasound may be more expensive at face value, some stones due to their mineral composition or size are not readily visible on radiographs while they would be apparent on ultrasound. Since many pets present initially with symptoms of a urinary tract infection (straining, bloody urine), initial testing often involves collection of urine for examination. This urine sample needs to be sterile or collected directly from the bladder with a needle (similar to a blood draw). Performing a culture on the urine allows diagnosis of specific bacterial infections if present.

What is the treatment for bladder stones?
The treatment for bladder stones depends largely on their specific composition. For some, specific prescription diets will dissolve even existing stones. For other stone types physical removal is necessary either via surgery or a procedure where the stones are expelled with compression of the under anesthesia. In cases of urinary tract obstruction due to a stone immediate intervention either with catheterization or surgery may be necessary.

How are bladder stones prevented?
The specific stone type determines how best to prevent recurrence. Increasing water intake and thus diluting the urine is appropriate for all types of stones. Manipulation of urine acidity via diet or medication is also utilized in many cases. Monitoring for bladder infections that may be silent and periodic radiographs or ultrasound to look for “silent” stones may also be recommended. The ultimate goal is to detect stones at a time where intervention other than surgery is an option.

House Training, Puppy

House Training, Puppy

Housetraining

By Dr. Karen Burgess

The keys to successful housetraining are consistency and frequency. The goal is training a pet not to eliminate in improper places (inside the house) and to hold their urine and feces until in a proper area (outside). The use of a crate or small confined area can expedite the process as most dogs will not chose to eliminate in the same spot that they sleep. An appropriately sized crate is big enough to allow a dog to stand up, turn around, and lay back down comfortably. Following are some general guidelines for successful “potty training”.

  • The younger the puppy the less control they will have and the more frequently they will need to go outside.
  • Feeding your puppy on a consistent schedule will help with potty training. A good method is putting the bowl of food down two to three times daily for 15 minutes and then picking the bowl up. Water should be offered at all times as young dogs do not have full ability to regulate their water reserves and can thus become dehydrated easier than adult dogs.
  • Puppies tend to need to eliminate after sleeping, eating, drinking, and playing.
  • Your puppy should not be left unsupervised. If not able to 100% watch a puppy for signs of elimination (circling, sniffing), it is better to confine them in their crate to avoid accidents. It is helpful to gate off a small area or tie an attached leash around ones waist to better monitor a puppy’s movements and watch for early signs of need to eliminate.
  • All trips outside to eliminate should be accompanied. When taking a puppy outside to eliminate use a consistent phrase (“outside”) and take them to the same location every time. Often a location that is as close to the door you will be exiting through is helpful. Keep your pet on a short leash to allow direct observation and thus praise for elimination. If your pet has an accident inside you can place the soiled clean up rags in their designated elimination spot to further reinforce this as the proper place to go.
  • Use a consistent phrase every time your dog eliminates (ex. “go potty”, “hurry up”). This phrase can be used throughout life to designate a time for elimination. Verbal praise and a treat (dog food kibble) should occur simultaneously with elimination NOT after going back inside.
  • If your pet eliminates, give them copious praise. This is then a good time for the reward of a walk or play. If they do not eliminate outside within a short period of time (five minutes) they should be put back in their crate for a period of time (15-30 minutes) and the steps repeated until proper elimination occurs.
  • If your dog eliminates in their crate and does not require a bath, the crate is either too big or there is too much bedding present.
  • If your puppy is caught in the act of having an accident, make a sound (clapping) or say something (“no!”, “eh-eh”) to interrupt the behavior and take them directly outside to their elimination area. Reward accordingly for appropriate elimination. Remember that physical punishment or reprimands (ex. rubbing nose in area of soiling) does not help with potty training and if anything can make a pet fearful or even worse aggressive. If you have found an area of previous soiling the only thing to be done is appropriate sanitizing (dry cleaning type odor neutralizer) and better observation moving forward. Most accidents are “operator error” as opposed to puppy error.
  • Paper training may seem like a good idea, but it may confuse a puppy and in the end prolong potty training efforts. Another option is sod training (placing a small area of sod inside). This may avoid some future confusion with paper surfaces.
  • A dog is typically not truly potty trained until they have not had an accident for a full month.

Example potty training schedule:
Crate overnight, carried outside on short leash in morning to designated elimination spot, after 5 minutes if no elimination take back to crate for 15 minutes. If proper elimination occurs, verbal praise and treat, then back inside to start day. Feed, supervised play. After hour or two (may need to go out again after eating) then back outside and then into crate for two to three hour “rest time”. This allows the bladder to be trained to hold urine and the puppy to understand that it is ok to be crated even if people are around. After rest time, take puppy outside and repeat cycle. It is often easiest to have a designated “rest time” in the morning, afternoon, and dinnertime. Always remember to sandwich time in the crate with trips outside (outside, crate, outside).

Elimination problems
The first question to answer when a pet is having issues with inappropriate elimination is whether the pet was ever fully housetrained in the first place. Also consider whether they has been a change in schedule, elimination location (more difficult to access), or feeding schedules. In these situations going back to housetraining basics is often enough to get things back on track.

If a pet is having accidents along with other changes in behavior, an underlying medical or behavioral problem may be present. Increased thirst, change of urination or defecation frequency, and change in character of stool or urine (ex. loose stool, blood tinged) may all be signs of an underlying disease. Location of accidents can also be telling as some pets may actually be experiencing incontinence while sleeping whereas urination on vertical surfaces may be marking behavior. Any signs of discomfort associated with urination or defecation are of note and also require examination by a veterinarian.

Elimination associated with specific environmental situations may be indicative of a behavioral issue are not typically purposeful or under the pet’s immediate control. Submissive or excitement urination often occurs when a pet meets new people, is stood or reached over, or is overly excited in a situation. Dogs that have issues with separation anxiety or noise phobia may soil during stressful times. Specific techniques are used to address elimination issues associated with behavioral problems and should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Regardless of cause, a pet that has soiled an area repeatedly should be denied access to this area unless 100% supervised. Ensuring that the area has been completely sanitized and even changing the substrate (ex. removing carpet, placing a mat over area) are also often helpful.

Vaccines- Core vs NonCore, Canine

Vaccines- Core vs NonCore, Canine

Core Vaccines & Your Dog

By Dr. Karen Burgess

Vaccine
Distemper (D)
Distemper is a contagious virus that is spread by infected dogs. It can lead to pneumonia, seizures, and even death. Puppies are protected by their mother’s milk initially and then by vaccinations given by your veterinarian every three weeks through 16 weeks of age, it is boostered one year later, and then given no more frequently than every three years.

Adenovirus 2 (A)
There are two different strains of adenovirus that are spread by unvaccinated, infected dogs. One causes a potentially fatal infectious hepatitis while the second strain contributes to “kennel cough”. Puppies are protected by their mother’s milk initially and then by vaccinations given by your veterinarian every three weeks through 16 weeks of age, it is boostered one year later, and then given no more frequently than every three years.

Parvovirus (P)
Parvo is an extremely contagious virus that causes a severe infection of the stomach and intestines. This leads to bloody diarrhea, vomiting, and often, if not treated, death. Puppies gain protection initially from their mother’s milk, but as this immunity fades they require vaccinations to prevent infection. The disease is spread by infected dog’s feces and is very hardy, surviving in the environment for months. Young, unvaccinated dogs are very susceptible, so avoid walking your young pet in public areas until they are completely vaccinated.